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Shibori & Indigo: The lovers of Ơi Kimono

Shibori is the ancient Japanese craft of resist-dyeing – a technique used to embellish cloth in Japan for over 4000 years. The Japanese verb Shiboru means “to wring, squeeze, press”. Shibori requires manipulating the cloth by tying, twisting, folding, scrunching, and then securing the fabric before exposing it to dye. Areas with more resistance will not absorb the dye. One can find Shibori in textiles for fashion and interiors. The mysterious and spontaneous qualities of Shibori inspire many from all over the world, as such its patterns and tactile approach enjoy very high popularity.

Why is the Shibori kimono Oi crop unique?

For our Indigo line, we favour the Japanese hand resist dyeing technique Shibori to create our patterns, making every piece completely unique – no two pieces are the same. The Indigo Crop Kimono is made from 100% silk produced in Vietnam.

As with all our kimonos from the Indigo Line, we also dye the fabrics using locally sourced natural indigo in Vietnam.

Why Kimono Oi love Shibori?

Aside from each piece always being completely unique, there is a beautiful and sublime imperfection to a Shibori design. You can account for a lot in planning, but the element of surprise will prevail, giving you more than what you intended. The aesthetic can often be described as one of beauty that is imperfect, impermanent, and incomplete. This is a concept derived from Buddhist teachings of the three marks of existence. Richard Powell shares three similar realities – “Nothing lasts, nothing is finished and nothing is perfect” This is why Kimono Oi love Shibori.

Wabi Sabi – Lilly’s Long Time Obsession

An early philosophy Lilly Wong of Kimono Oi applied to her art and teaching practices during her uni days; all art students should take a leaf out of the book – “Wabi-Sabi for Artists, Designers, Poets & Philosophers” by Leonard Koren. Eastern Asian aesthetics is one of the most beautiful and sublime.

The Wabi-Sabi book represents a Japanese world view or aesthetic centred on the acceptance of transience and imperfection. The aesthetic is sometimes described as one of beauty that is “imperfect, impermanent, and incomplete”.

How Kimono Oi uses Shibori

Shibori can be meticulously prepared, with each pattern planned and repeated. Kimono Oi use their playful nature, utilising accident and chance, only applying an element of control and leaving the rest to the unknown.

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A History of the Kimono

Japanese design is globally celebrated. Seeing it gives you a taste of beautiful, functional simplicity. Even better, a visit to Japan is an education in simplicity in form. This design practice is evident in the traditional clothing – Kimono; meaning “to wear” evolution from the name for clothing into what we have today.

  • Kitagawa Utamaro
  • Man in Haori, photographed in the Edo period.

Tradition

The Kimono is made of panels of straight-line cut fabric. The width of the loom would dictate the size of the fabric panels that come together to form the Kimono. For example, the back of the Kimono is made of two rectangular sheets forming a back seam in the middle. Long sleeves give away one’s marital status, with the longest reserved for single ladies.

The kimono is worn with the lapel left over right, right over left is reserved for those who have passed on to the next life. They are held with a sash (Obi). Choice of the pattern was very important and showed different social status and for use on different occasions.

The ancient history of the Kimono is visible all over Asia. Origins include China with her influences spreading to Japan, Korea, and Vietnam. All countries taking influence and creating their own unique fashions. From the tailored and fitted Ao Dai of Vietnam to the Korean Hanbok, key elements and rules remain in place.

  • Ao Dai (Vietnam)
  • Hanbok (Korea)
  • Cheongsam (China)

Adaptability

The Kimono was popular for its versatility. Heavy silk and hemp lined Kimonos could be worn layered for winter; whereas light linen or cotton Yukata kimono is fitting for humid summers and warmer weather. The flat shape makes for easy folding and storage. In fact, there is a myriad of folding techniques. We have a little guide here for further reading. (BUILD PAGE AND RE LINK)!

Cinema & Pop Culture

The famous image of the Samurai warrior in the 20th-century film brought Kimono to a global audience. Sanjuro played by Torisho Mifune looking cool in his Haori was not just the influence for a whole genre of Hollywood spaghetti westerns, but also the entrance of Japanese clothing to the west.

By the 1970s, David Bowie was incorporating the Kimono into Ziggy Stardust at the beginning of his life long love of Japan. The gender ambiguity of the character is fitting for a garment enjoyed by Men and Women.

  • David Bowie
  • Freddie Mercury

Kimono Oi

This article was written by Kimono Oi. We honor, respect, and meticulously research the tradition whilst developing our designs. Functional, versatile, and beautiful, we are passionate about bringing this wearability to everyone.